Trip Report – Carcassonne 30th May 2009 – 4th June 2009.
Many thanks to everyone who provided assistance in our planning: Cahill2, Mpprh, Psgcarca, Sydney Nick, Xeena and Bikies Tour from Ireland and my buddy Lightblue from Limerick.
At the outset let me state that this was more than a mere visit to Carcassonne but my first time flying following the completion of a Fear of Flying Course in Dublin Airport, in March 2009. The course was run by Aviatours and involved lectures on the technicalities of flying, the psychology of fear, actual relaxation and concluded with a short 45 minute flight in an Aer Arann plane.
I had always been a nervous flyer and tried to avoid it where possible. However, following our last flying trip to the UK in 1999, I pretty much refused to get on a plane. In fact the phobia had generalised so much that I became even fearful of entering our local airport. I became quite adept at justifying ferry travel. But still at a very private level acknowledged how my fear of flying was limiting me.
2009, I decided was the year that I would certainly attempt to deal with that fear, even if not entirely conquer it. We had been through a very difficult time over the previous few years – this involved the serious illness of two of our children and the death of another relative. I realised life was short and needed to be dealt with head on.
In the lead up to the flight I was incredibly nervous, but worked on the fear. I revised the techniques and information provided on the course and augmented it with hypnosis tapes and learning about acupressure points which could alleviate anxiety. I also provided myself with escape routes (persuading myself that if things got really bad the plane could land at a number of airports I had highlighted on the route). Lavender Oil and Bach Rescue Remedy also formed part of the package as did some xanax that ended up not being used.
The morning of the flight (well actually a continuum from the night before since I didn’t really get any sleep!!) we were out in the airport at 5.00am for our 7.45am Ryanair flight. Bags had been weighed, we had checked in on-line. I had enough distractions in my hand luggage to keep me totally active during a flight to Australia!! Dropped the bags off at the drop off zone and went through security to the departures lounge. There, while waiting to pay for water, my daughter and myself got into conversation with a lovely young man from Hawaii who was on his way to active service with the US air force. He told us his main aim was to keep his head down while on his tour of duty. We wished him safe travels. We still think of him and pray for his safety. My fears were put into perspective at that point.
Having paid for priority boarding we managed to get seats in row 3. Take off was barely discernable and within minutes I was in complete awe. I got up and walked down the aisle of the plane (I had NEVER done anything like this before!! I was incredibly relaxed). We had a beautiful day for flying and I was able to see and recognise many of the roads we had driven both in the UK and France. It was a lovely, lovely flight and I really enjoyed it (as did the children. Our youngest had never flown before and is now a convert).
We arrived in Carcassone Airport – had to queue outside to get in. Within a short time we were in our Ford C-Max Diesel. This was our first time ever driving a diesel car and we have been very impressed with both the performance of the car and the energy efficiency. We were less impressed with the car itself. It wasn’t big enough for our three kids in the back (tall but thin) and had a lot of blind spots.
Having diverted to a LeClerc to get some groceries, we arrived at our accommodation in Ventenac Cabardes. http://www.carcassonne-holidays.com This was a fortuitous discovery on the web. I just googled and found it. The apartment was spacious and clean and had a pool. It had two bedrooms, a living area and a balcony. We had access to a washing machine and drying facilities. It also has free WiFi. The owner, Jenny, is very hospitable .
Day 1 – We were exhausted following our early start, so we spent the afternoon in the medieval area of Carcassonne. This is absolutely beautiful. We were very impressed. However, we were so tired that we sat down for dinner at 5.30pm in the main square. By 8.00pm that night we were in bed.
Day 2 – Woken during the night by a text from hub’s brother!! At that stage we were aware of the thunder and lightning. By the time we woke up the following morning, we had torrential rain. We decided to head towards the coast and see how the weather panned out. We drove to Narbonne and then down the coast. The rain eventually eased enough for us to be able to take a short walk on the beach at Canet-plage Etang de Canet. This was lovely. But again the rains came in so we drove on. We took the winding road from Collioure to Llansa in Spain, stopping off at Cap Cerbere. It was a long drive but spectacular. The children hadn’t been to Spain before so they were interested in the changes. From Llansa we drove to Figueres and then to the motorway services at la Junquera where our elder daughter was entranced by a large collection of Betty Boo bags!! Only time the kids have ever liked a motorway services (bar Aire de la Baie de la Somme on the A16 near Amiens). Home to Carcassonne, ate in the main square once more. Lovely meal. There was still thunder and lightning as we ate outside.
Day 3. This was a bank holiday. Lovely sunny, warm day. We discovered there was an Intermarche open and picked up a memory card for hub’s new camera (hub had bought a new camera the previous week and was using it for the first time – the card died on Day 2. We lost everything. Luckily we had my laptop and uploaded our photos each night from then on ). We decided to head to Millau Bridge. This was something hub and I had wanted to do for a long time. We drove up the mountains, stopping at a motorway services near La Cavalarie. This was very high and very beautiful. We picnicked and continued.
You continue to climb, the scenery getting more and more spectacular, the road signs giving you your height and then suddenly you round a corner and WOW!! This incredible bridge. We drove across, having learned on this forum about the viewing point on the north side. This rest and viewing area is still under construction, but is still lovely. The walk to the viewing point is steep but most definitely worth it. We then drove down into Millau, drove across the gorge and up to the information area. We then drove to St. George de Luzencon, St. Rome de Tarn and crossed the gorge heading back towards Millau along the gorge via Compregnac. This was some incredible drive. The scenery was so beautiful. Really spectacular.
We then tried to get through Millau and back to the bridge. At some stage we got slightly lost and ended up in a new housing estate!! But we got there. At the services we pulled in and changed drivers. Hub had read on TA that driving from the North was spectacular and it was time for me to practice my driving in France, lol!! I used to be a nervous driver, but having driven down a mountain with 7% descents, doing speeds of 60-70 mph, I have to say I am far more relaxed now!!
Ate in the main square in Carcassonne. Food fine.
Day 4. Having done a lot of driving in the previous two days, we decided to let the kids chill a bit. We had a relaxing morning and then got some rolls from the supermarket and headed towards Mazamet in the Black mountains. This was really only intended to just get an overview of the area but the scenery, wow!! Mazamet is beautiful, there is an incredible look out just before you descend into the town. You look out over the town and see the old medieval villages and churches in the forested mountains. We drove to Castres then down the mountains through St. Affrique les Montagnes, Verdalle, etc (D85). We then took a left at Durfort in search of the Malamart Waterfall (Les Cascades de Malamart) which were marked on our map. We drove a very windy road, not more than 10 feet wide in places up an incredibly steep hill. We saw a former mill turned into a power station but we did NOT see Les Cascades. Drove down through Les Cammazes and Saissac (wow, what a beautiful town!!) back to the gite.
Kids spent some time swimming. Ate in the square in the Medieval City.
Day 5. This was a day we had planned. We were going to Andorra!! We knew it would be a long journey but felt that this might be the only time we would do it. Having checked with The AA and Via Michelin websites, eventually we decided to travel via Mirepoix, Palmiers then down the N20 through Foix, Ax-les-Thermes etc.
Once you start approaching the Pyrenees, the scenery becomes spectacular. Absolutely incredible. Noting that there is a wonderfully long tunnel near Hospitalet-pres-l’Andorre, we are tempted to drive through and back again. However the Porte-Puymorens is closed for maintenance so the decision is taken for us. Driving into Andorra and through Pas de la Casa, we make the decision to drive up the mountains rather than take the Tunnel d’Envalira. This is a beautiful drive and there is still snow on the mountains. It’s absolutely incredible to be out in flip flops only feet away from large tranches of snow. None of us have ever skied before so this is the first time any of us have been to a ski resort. The scenery is beautiful.
We drive through Andorra, down towards Andorra la Vella, deciding that this is the best location to have lunch and perhaps do some shopping. When we arrive in Andorra la Vella, we discover that all shops are closed between the hours of 2.00pm and 4.00pm and sadly ended up in McDonalds having lunch – so much for an Andorran experience. Our research had suggested that both French and Spanish were spoken in Andorra but our experience in McDonalds was that either Catalan or Spanish was spoken. None of us speaking any more Spanish than “Grazia”, I was put forward as the imbecile ordering the meal. In a moment, I turned in to a blundering idiot. We managed to order one of the most expensive McDonalds’s we’ve ever eaten (not that we are big fans anyhow!!). I managed to max and potentially supermax everything we ordered, lol!!
We spent some time wandering among the closed shops and through the lovely park in the centre of town which sat beside the mountain torrent running through the town. At this stage, I was beginning to feel uncomfortable in the heat (I don’t usually) so we decided to start for home. We set back up the mountains once more enthralled by the incredible scenery. We cannot remember where exactly, we think it was Soldat, we stopped for a walk and some retail therapy. There was a lovely perfumery, and a combination supermarket-furniture store. Tom Jones was blaring loudly over a megaphone. A very STRANGE experience. There in that shop, in the middle of Andorra, I saw the lamps I had been looking for here for the last two years!! Sadly, we were on Ryanair luggage rations so they had to be left behind. As had the other wonderful furniture. Next time, I’m bringing a van with me :o)) We left with some cigarettes €22 for 200, some makeup from the perfumery, some fridge magnets and the obligatory book on the area. Sadly we headed for the Tunnel d’Envalira and back home.
The drive was long but incredibly beautiful. I’m glad we did it, and I would love to return to Andorra for a summer walking holiday. I’d also like to return with a large van – I loved the furniture in that shop!!
We returned home and the children swam for a while. We ate in medieval Carcassonne for the last time.
Day 6 – our flight was leaving at 2.15pm. Hub and myself took a walk in Ventenac Cabardes, we packed the car for the last time, said good bye to Jenny (and the fun dogs next door) and left for Carcassonne airport. Checked in, dropped off our bags and went outside the airport to the shop for some water. Spent some time sitting in the sun (bought another couple of books), then when our flight was called went in. We had another lovely flight, passing over Roscoff Port with a smile as we shall be arriving there by ferry from Rosslare on June 27th!!
Observations:
Generally we loved Carcassonne and I’d return in a heartbeat. The fear of flying course (and the additional work I did) was very beneficial and I am looking forward to our next flight in September (to Heathrow). The Ryanair crew were very sympathetic and caring when I spoke of my fear. Priority boarding certainly worked very well for us as a group and I would use it again.
One issue of concern emerged and I have already posted here in this regard. We hired our car from Hertz and it was not provided with a warning triangle or luminous vests. Upon returning the car I spoke with the Hertz representative who told me that had we been found by the Gendarmes not to have had same, Hertz would have been liable rather than ourselves. However I would suggest that people do check their cars for a warning triangle and luminous vests because they are important in case of emergency.
Thanks again to all who helped. It was very much appreciated and I look forward to returning to the region some time in the future.
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What an inspiring report... congratulations on becoming a flyer!
We did much of your route in reverse last summer from Andorra to Carcassonne and north via Millau so reading your report brought back happy memories... I%26#39;d return in a minute also!
Thanks for the fun read.
Rob
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Thank you bean, and congratulations to you too. Well done, and I loved the report. Roll on end of June for us all! Bikie
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Glad you enjoyed your holiday. Strewth you covered some distance during one week. I%26#39;m just a little surprised you appeared to have limited your dining out to La Cite, still I suppose it is nice and lively and you do have a lot of choice. I visit the area every 6 weeks or so and thought I travelled a lot but you lick me to fits ! Canet Plage, Andora, Millau Bridge. I%26#39;d need a break after that little lot.
If you ever feel inclined to return spend some time in the lower town and try to incorporate some festivals or cultural events.
Well done with your flying phobia. Did you have Cognitive Behavioural Psychotherapy as treatment. Enjoy your future breaks
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Cahill,
We really didn%26#39;t have time to look for alternative dining when we were there.
We found a couple of places in the medieval city that did us just fine and we did so much mileage that we didn%26#39;t have time to go searching.
The next time, I shall ask for recommendations here.
We were limited in when we could travel to Carcassonne. It was a (sort-of) surprise birthday trip for Hubby and we were in the UK at the end of April/start of May for a family wedding, and are heading back to France once more via overnight ferry tomorrow (Southern Brittany, Southern Vendee and the Loire Valley).
We did cover a lot but we are delighted we did so. It certainly gave us a good overview for when we return - which we intend to do.
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Thank you very much for sharing your holiday with us. We love visiting Carcassonne and have done so on our motorbike travels and now avec young child. Last year we travelled to France on a little touring holiday, flying into Avignon %26amp; leaving from Carcassonne. We arrived at our hotel on a seemingly quiet Sunday afternoon and headed into one of the town squares to enjoy a drink in the evening sunshine. There wasn%26#39;t too much going on so we had a bit of a wander into town and what we came across was amazing...the concluding night of Spanish week. Wow what a night! The main town square was full of bars, tapas marquees and fantastic Spanish music on the stage. It was absolutely fantastic and the best night of our holiday. I would heartily recommend this event to anyone. According to the Carcassonne tourism website the Spanish week is being held on the last week in August.
