We took the train from Paris St. Lazare to Vernon on June 1 which was a Holiday. We were glad to see a bus to Giverny (3 euros) was waiting when our train arrived in Vernon, even though we didn%26#39;t expect one, based on the bus schedule I had. (We thought we might have to wait an hour or more for the bus or take a taxi).
In Giverny we stayed 3 nights at the Au Bon Marechal B%26amp;B in the center of the village, just off R. Claude Monet, the main street. This B%26amp;B couldn’t have been better and we enjoyed every minute of our stay! It was a gorgeous old vine covered stone house and several out buildings—old fashioned charm with very modern comforts! Everything was decorated beautifully, in impeccable condition, and exquisitely clean—furnishings, wall coverings, paint, and linens. It had a beautiful breakfast room where we were served juice, coffee, tea, cheese, yogurt, fruit, fresh bread and delicious, locally made, fruit preserves. We had the “blue room” upstairs in the main house for only 60 E/night. It was a nice-sized room with its own WC, a very modern shower stall, and sink. It was furnished with a king sized bed, wardrobe, small couch, table and chairs. Our romantic vine-encircled window looked out over the attractive grounds. There were many birds in the trees and greenery which added to the charm. There were doves in a cage down in the yard and a very friendly dog. Mostly Europeans were staying there—French and Dutch. The owners spoke very little English (enough to conduct reservations by email in English), but they were most helpful and friendly. They were wonderful people. He gave me a ride into Vernon when I needed to go in one day.
Giverny was the highlight of our time in this area. The Monet gardens were, of course, gorgeous, but the whole village itself is calendar quality with roses, vines and flowers everywhere on the picturesque old stone buildings. It was especially nice to stay overnight, as the village is so quiet and peaceful after the tourist crowds leave around 5 pm. The daylight lasted until after 10 pm at this time of year. There are several very good places to eat with outside tables. We ate at the charming, historic Ancien Hotel Baudy. (Patrons at the restaurant are also allowed to tour the extensive rose gardens in the back). We also ate dinner at L’Esquisse Gourmande and had lunch at Les Nympheas. There is a little snack and crepe place on R. C. Monet in the center of the village. We saw several other B%26amp;Bs that looked attractive. For example, La Pluie de Roses--it is a little farther from the center of the village, but the village is small so this is not really a problem.
We picked up a rental car in Vernon and took a day drive in the area of Giverny. The roads are well marked with signs directing to all the attractions. There are many attractions which are not listed in typical tourist guides, but are on local tourist maps and road signs. Vernon was an interesting old town and we would have enjoyed spending some time poking around there, including visiting its chateau, but we just didn’t have time. We went to Lyons-la-Foret, an attractive old Norman town with lots of half-timbered buildings. We had lunch at a nice little teashop overlooking the market place. This is a nice town if you happen to be in the area, but is not overwhelming in terms of charm or things to do. Then we decided to go to chateau Fleury la Foret. It turned out to be closed (open only on weekends), but it was neat just the same. It is out in the country on a winding country road—you go around a curve and Voila!—there it is. Lots of huge trees and old outbuildings. The fields in that area stretch away in into the distance in every direction and are very fertile. We went on to Chateau Vascoeuil which is on the small side, but it is a venue for artwork and has a very large, round, interesting ancient brick building which is a dove cote. We went to the chateau Martainville. It looks quite attractive, but the outside was covered in wrapping as it was being renovated. We didn’t tour the inside as we were running out of time. We stopped at one of the cider farms and bought cider and apple jelly near Frenelles, walked around the old cider barn and farm buildings. Then we went to Les Andelys. The views of the Seine from the park near the ruins of the Chateau Gaillard are very dramatic. We didn’t climb up to the ruins as it was getting late, but I’m sure this would be a very worthwhile. The old town itself, down near the Seine is quite tired and weary looking. I’m glad we didn’t decide to stay overnight or spend more of our limited time there. We did eat at a very good Provenal restaurant, Le Mistral, at 26 r. Grande, the main street of the old town, about a block over from the Seine.
The next day, after staying another night in Giverny, we drove to the ruins of Abby Jumieges and to Honfleur. I’ll continue on the Honfleur board.
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Loved your report. Next time I go to Paris I will plan on a short stay in Giverny. I%26#39;ve been considering it simply a day trip. Thanks.
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